An update on dining in Belgrade

Just some quick notes on places we have tried in the last couple of months:

Restoran Oskar: This was the discovery of the season for us, traditional dishes perfectly prepared, and a good selection of domestic wines. They made best sarme we have tasted, with Montenegrin hard cabbage. In Dorćol, ul. Braća Baruh below Dušanova.

Restoran Čubura: I came here one day with my student and we were thrilled by the fanstasticity of it. A few days later Mrs Ethnia went with some friends and was disappointed. Go figure. On Vračar, gradić Pejton.

Restoran Porto: Good fresh fish, fine service. However, be warned that it is obscenely expensive. Go only if somebody else (preferably, somebody against whom you bear a grudge) is paying. ul. Francuska, way off in the industrial zone.

Kafana ?: Amazingly enough, this year is the first time that we tried the food at this landmark spot. They offer up good classic roštilj, and they have renovated the toilets probably for the first time since opening. ul. 7. jula, between the bankers and the theologians.

Čobanov odmor: It's a takeout place, but you can get sandwiches in a freshly baked lepinja, goatsies, sheepsies or piggies with kajmak. Darn good, even with the folk styling. At Crveni krst, ul. Žarka Zrenjanina.

Kafana Proleće: Hardly a discovery, but we have noted again that this low-priced standby is still pretty darn good. It may well be the only remaining normal place in the central part of town. Preko puta Instituta za sociološko i kriminalističko istraživanje.

Pietro dell'oro: Italian šminka, owned by some sports figure or another. The design is excellent, the food is okay, and the service is on the level of "you should be happy just to be here." Admire from afar. Vračar, ul. Save Kovačevića.

The classics have remained classic, and we have at least not encountered any places that used to be good which have turned bad. Though we have no doubt that they exist.